The aim of this blog is to act as a guide as to how to wear a more traditional formal dress and to provide knowledge and understanding of how to confidently wear this more formal attire in a modern age, so you can look good and feel great.
Over the past 30 years, there has been a decline in people wearing traditional formal clothing and a move towards wearing more casual and comfortable garments such as jeans, T-shirts and trainers. We live in a modern world where, understandably many people now don’t know how to wear formal attire or feel very uncomfortable if they have to wear it.
This blog will cover:
- how the colour of a suit, or jacket and trousers dictate the rest of the outfit.
- how to coordinate the colours used in the shirt tie and suit
- how the colour of the shirt influences the image
- how the tie and pocket square colours fit in with the image
- how the colour of the shoes affects the image.
There are many formal opinions and views on how a gentleman wears a suit or sports jacket or blazer.
This guide is very simple and is based upon my personal opinions of what makes a good look.
It’s easily mimicked, allowing you to achieve a successful look that suits you.
Colour Co-ordination
Many people find it difficult to coordinate the colours of men’s traditional clothing. This is where a colour chart or wheel can be extremely helpful. These are easily found with a quick online search for ‘fashion colour charts’. They’re not very expensive should you wish to buy one.
Generally, these colour charts or colour wheels even provide you with instructions on how to use them. You can also simply follow these basic rules:
What colour suit or jacket and trousers?
The colour of suit trousers and a suit jacket are matching, but if you are going to wear a sports jacket/tweed jacket or a blazer, the trouser would not match and nor should you try to make them match!
A sport’s jacket and blazer are separate items and look their best when worn with contrasting colours or shades. I tend to wear dark trousers if I wear a lighter coloured jacket and wear lighter coloured trousers if the jacket is dark. If you try to wear similar coloured trousers with the jacket, it will look awkward and un-matching.
If it is not a suit – don’t try to make it look like a suit, it rarely works.
Colour, stripes and patterns…
I stick to these very simple rules of thumb when it comes to coordinating your outfit and they will work for you too.
Obviously, you can still wear a striped shirt and striped tie with a striped suit or jacket, but it’s much more difficult to achieve a great look and requires a more complex approach.
Essentially it comes down to the width and gauge of the stripes. By mixing these up in an outfit, you can reduce the risk of it looking too busy or complex. Use either narrower or thicker stripes in the shirt and the tie than that in the suit or jacket.
Similarly, this would also be the case when wearing a checked tie and checked shirt with a checked suit or jacket.
What colour shirt?
Different coloured shirts invoke a different image or vibe. For example; a pink shirt will appear warmer, a white shirt is neutral and crisp and a blue shirt appears cooler. There are many other coloured shirts on the market as well that can be worn.
Just be mindful that different colours can clash so remember to consult your colour wheel. Darker coloured shirts tend to go better with lighter suits or jackets, and conversely lighter colours go better with darker suits or jackets.
Also, be aware of what colours complement your complexion, the wrong choice can make you look pasty, grey or even jaundiced!
Striped shirts and checked shirts tend to be coloured stripes or varying widths or checks over a white shirt, so consider the coloured element of the shirt when matching an ensemble. I find muted or pastel-coloured stripes and checks can be very effective and easier to colour match.
If you’re working with a limited budget, I would suggest you only need a plain white shirt and then build on that.
What colour tie and pocket square?
I like to use the colour of my tie and pocket square to give a little pop of colour to my outfit.
I tend to stick to set colours. The colour and pattern of the shirt or the type of suit or jacket will indicate what type of ties to wear, whether that be striped, patterned, spots, paisley or plain.
I try to pick out some of the key colours in the tie to reflect in the colour selection of the pocket square. If you want a sophisticated and less flamboyant look, a plain handkerchief is best. Using a white handkerchief, goes well with most coloured shirts, especially a white shirt, but for some strange reason if you are going to wear a light blue shirt, it doesn’t go that well, so I tend to wear a light blue handkerchief instead.
What colour shoes?
When it comes to choosing what colour shoes to wear with what colour suit or jacket, it can be difficult to select for that special look.
How to shine your shoes.
Here is a guide that will help you make that choice.
Five different looks…
Whilst I personally wear a classic style, this can still be used as a template of colour selections for any other style you prefer to wear, whether that’s skinny, slim, tailored, or even flared (if they ever come back into fashion)!
Here are 5 different classic looks that would be brilliant, which you can tailor to your personal preference as to the style you wear.
The dark-suited look
Whilst the suit is dark, either plain, striped or checked, it is always a good thing to give this look a pop of colour with the tie and pocket square.
A white shirt gives this look a crisp, clean look for any occasion. Paired with black shoes, this is a timeless classical look which would never go out of fashion.
If you would like to replicate this look, then click on the links below, which will take you to similar items.
The dark-suited look
The light-coloured suit look
The light-coloured suit look
Similar to dark suit look, a lighter coloured suit can be either plain, striped or checked, it is again a good thing to give this look a pop of colour with the tie and pocket square. Personally I tend to use darker red tones with lighter coloured suits.
A white shirt gives this look a crisp, clean look for any occasion, however equally a pink or blue shirt goes well.
Paired with black or ox blood coloured shoes (oxfords or brogues go really well with this look – your choice).
Again whilst this is another timeless classical look it is also a better colour to wear in the warmer weather.
If you would like to replicate this look, then click on the links below, which will take you to similar items.
Dark jacket or blazer look
Dark jacket or blazer look
With a darker jacket I always wear a lighter pair of trousers to contrast the jacket. you will note with this assemble, there is also a lighter grey sleeveless pullover again contracting not only the Jacket, but also the trousers.
The tie and pocket square give a pop of colour to the outfit and on this occasion because the jacket is navy blue, a pale blue shirt was worn.
Paired with Black, Ox blood, Navy or Dark Brown shoes, this is another great look which would never go out of fashion.
If you would like to replicate this look, then click on the links below, which will take you to similar items.
The light-coloured jacket look
The light-coloured jacket look
With a lighter jacket I always wear a darker pair of trousers to contrast the jacket.
Again the tie and pocket square give a pop of colour to the outfit and on this occasion because the jacket is lighter coloured puppytooth, a pale blue shirt was worn, but equally a pink or white shirt could be worn to great effect.
Paired with Black, Ox blood or Dark Brown shoes, this is another great look which is timeless.
If you would like to replicate this look, then click on the links below, which will take you to similar items.
The country tweed jacket look…
The country tweed jacket look…
I always consider a colour palette relating to the outdoors e.g., the sky, woods, moorland, water, sea and fields when choosing my outfit for a country tweed jacket look.
Tweed was traditionally used for hunting (shooting) and fishing and was chosen to blend in with its surroundings whilst being very functional with the fit of the clothes and the materials used in its construction. It was a little bit like camouflage and reflected the colours found in particular landscapes of that area. In recent years there has been a bit of a revival in the use of tweed and I’ve noticed an increase in young people wearing tweed sports jackets and choosing tweed wedding suits.
If you would like to replicate this look, then click on the links below, which will take you to similar items.
Final words…
If you would like a free PDF copy of the guide showing the co-ordination of suit type, shirt type and tie design and/or the guide showing the choice of shoes with suits or jackets, we would love to hear from you, please provide your email address here
Chris Andrews is a classic men’s style advisor helping people realise a more refined look by instilling the lost skills and understanding of classic men’s attire.
I just wanted to express my gratitude for the valuable insights you provide through your blog. Your expertise shines through in every word, and I’m grateful for the opportunity to learn from you.
Thank you.