Let’s face it, buying a suit can be very expensive, and if we’re not sure what we’re looking for when we’re shopping for a suit, our investment can be wasted.
This blog assumes you don’t have a suit (or one that you can comfortably wear or feel good in), and that you need to buy one. It aims to provide some basic insight and information to help you choose your new suit and shoes with confidence and at a price you can afford.
Check out The British Dapper’s ten-point checklist at the end of this blog to help you shop for your suit.
Suit Basics
A suit is either a 2 piece or a 3 piece. A 2-piece is comprised of a jacket and matching trousers, and a 3-piece includes the addition of a matching waistcoat.
Neither is more formal or informal and which we choose depends on the look we wish to create.
What Are We Paying For?
The cost of a suit can vary tremendously and the price is affected as much by what fabrics and materials it’s made with as how it’s made.
What It’s Made With
A suit is made from a variety of fabrics and materials and the price is dependent on which ones are used.
If a suit is made to be worn in the country, or we wish to sport a hunting or fishing look that’s more informal, our suit will be made from harder wearing mixed fabrics such as tweed.
This can be reflected in the price depending on the quality of these materials equally as much as a suit that’s made to be worn in the town or city.
How It’s Made
A bespoke suit made by a tailor is more expensive due to the quality of the fabrics and materials, craftsmanship, expertise and the hours the tailor puts into the making of it.
Whereas a suit that’s factory-made, regardless of its label, uses less skilled labour and modern production methods using standardised sizing, which reduces the labour involved in personalising the fit of the suit and therefore it’s cost.
Obviously buying a suit from a specialist who creates handmade tailored suits on Savile Row is going to be more expensive.
If you can afford this type of suit that’s wonderful – who wouldn’t want to own a handmade suit made in Savile Row!
Much as I’d love one, I couldn’t afford a Savile Row suit and the majority of people I know couldn’t afford one either! But there’s no need to let this put us off buying a suit or wearing one.
How Long will My Suit Last Me?
We’ve already established that a suit is an investment, but just how long is it going to last us?
As we know, fashion comes and goes, and if we buy a suit that’s in fashion now it can go out of style long before it wears out.
Take the 1970s suit…
In the height of fashion then, the 70s suit was typically brown or fawn in colour, the lapels very wide, the trousers high buttoned waisted with flared bottoms. Shirts with large collars worn with a large kipper tie or a medallion were all the rage, not to mention the 4-inch platform shoes or boots!
You could say that this is a suit that’s firmly anchored in its time…
Suits may not be quite so flamboyant nowadays, but it’s still a real risk that the suit that was so on-trend when we bought it ends up hanging in the wardrobe having only been worn once or twice. Meanwhile, we have to stump up yet more cash on something we can wear!
A Classic Look Is Always In Style
On the other hand, a classic look is neither in nor out of fashion.
The longevity of a suit is determined by its simplicity, and it’s classic rather than fashionable look. Whilst fashion trends change, a classic look blends in seamlessly without ever appearing to be dated.
The classic simplicity of it’s cut and style means that we can still look stylish, and be confident that our suit will continue to rise to the occasion every time we wear it for many years to come.
What About The Label?
Whilst we might feel we gain kudos by wearing a suit with a designer label, in reality, it’s not the designer who has made it. It’s the person in the factory who’s made the suit, using the designers’ pattern.
Therefore, despite its famous credentials the suit won’t fit as perfectly as would a bespoke handmade tailored suit.
It’s how our suit fits and feels that’s important and not the label inside it.
We’re going to look and feel so much more well turned out in a well-fitted suit which may not have a designer label than in a designer suit which doesn’t fit so well.
And this is going to have a knock-on effect on how we wear our suit, which will show in how we walk and talk and carry ourselves.
Hands down, we’re going to feel so much more confident and sure of ourselves in a suit that fits us well, over what the label inside the suit says.
The Classic Suit Look
A classic suit can be worn for several different occasions, it would look good and be appropriate attire whether we’re attending a wedding or a funeral.
We can also wear a classic suit for business or in another formal setting.
What Colour Should I Choose?
A plain dark blue, navy blue, charcoal grey, a mid-grey or black suit would be a good choice.
Black suits tend to be worn for evening events.
A plain dark grey or charcoal 3-piece suit is good for most occasions.
The Jacket
There are two types of jacket to consider when looking to buy a suit and that is either a double breasted or a single breasted jacket.
Here is an example of a classic suit, which has a double-breasted, 2 buttoned jacket with a lapel which has a timeless appeal being not too wide or narrow.
It has good width across the shoulders and is tapered enough to give clean lines and definition. The double breasted look can be considered by some as a more expensive look, due to more fabric being used in its design.
Both double and single breasted jackets will generally have in the rear of the jacket a vent, 2 vents or no vent, depending on the style or cut of the jacket.
A vent was historically to allow freedom of movement when riding a horse, now it still allows freedom of movement and better drape of the jacket. A jacket with no vent is more restrictive around the hips.
Here is an example of a classic suit, which has a single-breasted, 2 buttoned jacket with a lapel which again has a timeless appeal being not too wide or narrow. It has good width across the shoulders and is tapered enough to give clean lines and definition.
If the jacket is done up, the bottom button should remain undone. The drape of the jacket is greatly improved by this.
The waistcoat should traditionally also be worn with the bottom button undone.
The Trousers
The trousers of a classic suit are a simple single pleated front. A double-pleat may be considered should we be heavy set in the thighs, as this gives us more room in the width of the leg.
Perhaps the most important factor to note is that the suit trousers need to be tailored to the correct length.
If they are too long for us they’ll appear ruffled at the bottom and if too short, we’ll be showing too much sock.
None of these is a good look and both make it appear as if we’ve borrowed someone else’s suit for the day!
We own our look in more ways than one when the length of our trouser is specifically tailored to us.
The Shirt
A plain coloured shirt goes well with a classic suit. A white shirt is a staple wardrobe item to have, and it can be worn with other outfits easily.
Wearing a blue shirt will cool the look of the suit down, whilst a pink shirt warms it up.
Collar types vary and the go-to for most looks is the straight point collar. These normally have as standard a single button down cuff.
Size-wise a regular fitting shirt is a little bit more forgiving if we’re prone to putting on a few pounds, whereas a tailored or slim fitting shirt can be a little restrictive if we’re that little bit more muscular.
The tie
A tie is a very personal thing and what colour we wear and how we wear it depends on the image we want to create.
I favour a Half Windsor knot in ties of certain colours that I personally like.
With a classic dark grey suit, I like to wear a plain dark red (wine coloured) tie. This colour combination looks great together for a more formal look as does a deep purple.
What Shirt With What Tie?
When it comes to what shirt to wear with what tie there are arguably established rules, or etiquettes, that are laid down and followed by purists.
Setting this aside a moment – let’s just say some looks are better than others. Again, it’s about personal choice.
A plain shirt worn with a plain tie is preferable for more formal wear, striped shirts are normally worn for more informal or casual wear.
Wearing a striped tie with a striped shirt tends to create a look that’s too busy and a plain or spotted tie works best with a striped shirt.
A paisley patterned tie tends to look better with a plain coloured shirt, whether that would be in white or some other colour.
The Shoes
Shoes are an important consideration, and whilst the style of the shoe can be formal, informal or casual, a black shoe is an obvious choice for formal wear.
A classic formal shoe would be the Oxford, with or without a toe cap.
With a history dating back over two hundred years, the Oxford shoe is believed to have derived from the traditional attire of Oxford University students. Today, it projects the image of craftsmanship and of course, classic British styling.
Don’t be put off by the heritage of this shoe or its plain look – it is perfect for formal events, such as weddings, black tie events and business.
The Accessories
Whilst the suit is important, just as important to complete a quality look are the accessories that go with it. As well as the shirts and ties, these include a pocket square, socks, belts, braces and jewellery; like watches, rings and cufflinks.
In summary, here is The British Dapper’s ten-point checklist for creating a classic look:
1. Decide on whether you want a two or three-piece suit.
2.Decide on a town or country look.
3.Decide whether you’d like (or can afford) a tailor-made or factory-made suit.
4.Choose a classic style, single or double breasted jacket.
5.Decide on a single or double pleat trouser.
6.Have the length of the trouser specifically tailored to you.
7.Choose your shirt for the look you want to create.
8.Pick your tie.
9.Choose your shoes.
10.Finish your look off with quality accessories.
Look out for our next blog.
Chris Andrews is a classic men’s style advisor helping people realise a more refined look by instilling the lost skills and understanding of classic men’s attire.
Just wanted to let you know how impressive I find your article to be. The clarity of your post is remarkable, leading me to believe that you are an authority on this subject. If it’s okay with you, I’d like to subscribe to your feed in order to be notified of future posts. Your work is truly appreciated. Please continue this gratifying endeavor.
Thank you for your comments.